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My very first visit to Seoul included a stop at the newly constructed branch of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea.  I heard there was an installation by Do Ho Suh that would only be up for a few more months, and I could not wait to see it.  I was already familiar with his pieces from working at the Seattle Art Museum, which held his first retrospective in 2002.  While I did not work there in 2002, I did get to witness the installation he created for SAM in 2011 titled Gate, a multimedia piece based on the gate outside his parent’s home in Seoul and a few pieces in SAM’s beautiful Asian art collection.  It blew me away, as I’d never seen anything quite like it before.  I was equally blown away by the installation in Seoul called Home within Home within Home within Home within Home, a life-size fabric reproduction of his first residence in the United States and his family’s traditional Korean house hanging in the middle.

Do Ho Suh, Home Within Home at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul.

Do Ho Suh’s Home Within Home Within Home Within Home Within Home at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul.

Do Ho Suh (서도호) is a Korean artist, mostly known for his sculptures, who now splits his time between New York, Seoul and London.  Most of his work  is site-specific (or at least context-specific) and often focuses on the idea of personal space and identity.  I am most impressed with his architectural pieces in which he uses fabric, creating a delicate space that can be occupied by the viewer.  Home within Home within Home within Home within Home is one of them where he beautifully demonstrates time and space and the memory of home with a ghost-like quality.  The shear fabric in a calming blue color reveals the past and the present in such a surreal manner, and the transparency forces you to look at the relationship between individuals and the notion of private versus public.

Do Ho Suh, Home within Home within Home within Home within Home

Do Ho Suh, Home within Home within Home within Home within Home

Do Ho Suh, Home within Home within Home within Home within Home

Home within Home within Home within Home within Home: traditional Korean house within Western-style house; Western-style house with Seoul Box; Seoul Box within the Seoul branch; the Seoul branch within Seoul.

The detail is incredible.

The detail is incredible.

The front door of the house where Do Ho  first lived when he got to the United States in Providence, Rhode Island.

The front door of the house where Do Ho first lived when he got to the United States in Providence, Rhode Island.

You can even see Do Ho's name on the building directory.

The photo is a bit blurry, but you can even see Do Ho’s name on what would have been the building directory.

Do Ho's family's traditional Korean home hangs within the Western style home.

Do Ho’s family’s traditional Korean home hangs within the Western style home.

Looking up at Do Ho's traditional Korean home, I am

Looking up at Do Ho’s traditional Korean house hanging within his first home in the United States, I felt especially connected to this exploration of identity, space and presence of culture shock as I adjust to life in a foreign country that is very far from what I call home.

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Beautiful detail by Do Ho Suh in Home Within Home Within Home Within Home Within Home at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Seoul.

If you ever have a chance to see anything by Do Ho Suh, I strongly encourage you to do so.  There are elements of sentimentality to his work that are very thought-provoking and I’m not very good at describing them.  I think you will be impressed.

 

 

I love cats, and I miss mine dearly (had to leave him behind when I came to Korea), so when I heard there were places called cat cafes in Korea I just had to check it out.  You won’t find them in small towns like the one I live in, but nearly all the larger cities have them.  I went to one in Myeongdong in Seoul and even though I’d never heard of the concept until I got here, it was pretty close to how I imagined it would be–a coffee shop with cats roaming, playing and napping all over the place. It was awesome.

Just hanging out at a cat cafe in Seoul.

Just hanging out at a cat cafe in Seoul.

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Teasing cats with straws is not allowed.

After taking my shoes off at the door, I paid 8,000 won to enter (just under $7) which included one free coffee drink or tea.  Then I sat down and enjoyed my green tea latte while admiring the 22 different cats in the cafe.

The cat cafe rules.

The cat cafe rules: do not hug the cats (especially if you look like an alien), do not disturb sleeping cats, no pulling cat tails, turn off your camera flash, do not touch the cats while they eat, don’t pat the cat’s bottom, don’t feed the cats anything except cat treats, and don’t tease the cats with straws.

Pondering.

Pondering.

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The gray and white Scottish Fold was my favorite. Those ears, so cute!

Remember, no hugging the cats!

Remember, no hugging the cats!

I think this lady is the cat whisperer. At one point she had three cats sleeping in her lap.

I think this lady is the cat whisperer. At one point she had three cats sleeping in her lap.

Names and descriptions of all the cats in the cafe. I wonder what goes on after closing time...

Names and descriptions of all the cats in the cafe. I wonder what goes on after closing time…

The day started out like any other Monday in Korea. I taught three classes before lunch, then prepared for three more in the afternoon. On the way back to my classroom from the cafeteria, my co-teacher and I are stopped by another teacher and they have a five minute conversation in Korean. I hear my name a few times so I smile and nod, pretending I vaguely know what they are talking about even though I have no idea. It’s then relayed to me, very simply, that I have to take a “business trip” to Cheongju.  Today.  I look at my watch, it’s 12:55.  Cheongju is an hour away by bus which runs infrequently in the afternoons.

Ok, so I assume my afternoon classes will be cancelled?

Yes.

What is the business trip for?

A cultural class.

Oh, ok. When does it start?

At 3 maybe.

At 3, maybe?

Yes maybe.

Uh, ok.

We then go speak to the vice principal, who doesn’t seem very happy about this business trip. The two teachers and the vice principal carry on a 20 minute conversation that feels quite fierce. There seems to be some confusion with paperwork.  Again, I stand there smiling and nodding, trying not to look like I am so confused about what is going on right now (all I could think was how intense this seemed for a last minute cultural class and why am I just now hearing about this).  My co-teacher decides to go with me to Cheongju to show me where the business meeting is since I have no idea how to get there. Turns out neither does she. After taking a bus to Cheongju, asking a few people for directions at the bus terminal, hopping on a local bus for a few kilometers, getting off the bus, getting in a taxi, getting out of the taxi only to discover a few minutes later we are at the wrong place on the opposite side of the city, getting in another taxi, then wandering around two huge buildings, we finally arrive at 3:45 (I hate being late!) when the meeting started at 3, maybe. My co-teacher leaves me to attend the business meeting or what I understand to be a Korean cultural class.  More like Korean surprise! This is not in fact a class to learn about Korean culture. This is a meeting to discuss the guidelines of the class I am teaching about American culture to middle school students in various schools throughout the county. Oh, I see, I volunteered to teach cultural classes. Maybe? Yes maybe.


Aside from the language barrier, I think the most challenging part of living in Korea has been learning how to deal with varying degrees of Korean surprises.  Things tend to change or happen last minute and there are quite a few aspects of Korea that don’t seem to make sense logistically.  There have been times when I’ve quickly become faced with awkward, frustrating situations that have pulled me completely out of my comfort zone.  I can certainly be flexible, but I will say I’ve always been a pretty organized planner.  So when I was suddenly told I had a business trip in another city, immediately, and that’s all the information I got (I still have no idea what went on between the teachers that day, or why I had no knowledge about volunteering to teach extra cultural classes) my initial reaction was to freak out and demand to know why I was just receiving this information.  But I’ve encountered quite a few circumstances similar to this in the past three months that have required me to pause, take a deep breath and trust that everything will be just fine in order to avoid a meltdown, as that won’t get me anywhere in Korea.

Sometimes it’s frustrating tidbits of everyday life, like the bank requiring you to have a local phone number to set up and account and the phone company requiring you to have a local bank account to activate a phone. Huh?  Or walking into the teacher’s lounge first thing in the morning and finding out it’s hiking day as you look down at the dress and tights you’re wearing. Or being told on Tuesday you don’t have to teach classes on Wednesday so you don’t prepare anything, only to hear on Wednesday morning you will actually be teaching and class started five minutes ago.  I have definitely had my moments of hair-pulling, cursing and crying (mostly in private), but I am getting better at recognizing the things I can’t control and just taking a breath, putting a smile on my face, and giving thanks for having the opportunity to live and work abroad so I can enjoy my pocketful of delicious kimchi.  If that doesn’t work, I attempt to laugh without smiling.  It works every time (thanks, David).

 

Aside from my experience during a four week TEFL course in Thailand–Samui TEFL, a program I highly recommend–I had never taught before coming to Korea.  Surprisingly, teaching experience is not a requirement to teach for the English Program in Korea, you just have to hold a four year degree in, well, anything.  I was a bit nervous during the first week or two of teaching here, however I’ve settled into the daily routine and am finally getting the hang of it…I think.  Midterms are next week, we’ll see how their English scores are (yes, elementary students in Korea take midterms).

I teach at two different schools which first sounded quite overwhelming to me, but it actually adds some variety to my week and let’s me experience both a small school and a really small school.  I have one co-teacher at each school that aids in teaching and interpreting.  My main school, Namshin Elementary, is just a five minute walk from my apartment making my commute a breeze.  I teach there on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays.  My day starts at 8:30 am and wraps up at 4:30, however my hours spent teaching in the classroom vary each day.  This semester at Namshin I’m teaching grades 4 – 6 and have about 24 – 29 students per class.  On my busiest day I teach 6 classes, on my quietest day I teach just 3.

My second school is Daejang Elementary which is about a fifteen minute car ride north of Eumgseong.  The 6th grade homeroom teacher lives in my apartment complex so she kindly gives me a ride when I teach there on Wednesdays and Fridays.  Daejang only has 43 students in the entire school, so my class sizes for grades 3 – 6 range from 5-8 students which I really enjoy.  I’ve actually been able to learn all their Korean names.

When I’m not teaching my day is spent lesson planning, desk warming (code for look busy when you don’t have anything to do) and playing volleyball with the other teachers and principal.  And by volleyball I mean the kind where it’s totally cool to kick the ball over the net and score a point.  Lunchtime, which I thoroughly look forward to everyday and do in fact miss on the weekends, starts promptly at 12:10 each day.  Even though I don’t know what I’m eating sometimes, I will say the meals are delicious and healthy (more on that later).  Just the other day I was told by my vice principal that I have excellent chopstick skills.  Now I just need to work on my Korean language skills, as I never would’ve understood the compliment had it not been translated by my co-teacher.

One of two English classrooms at Namshin.

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View of the schoolyard with my apartment building in the background.

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Namshin Elementary School

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“Emily Teacher” by my artistic students at Daejang.

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My afternoon “cup” of coffee…instant coffee, a Korean favorite. Mmmmm.

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Grade 5 at Namshin, watching an informative video.

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Grade 4 girls, working on their English name tags.

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Grade 4, working on their English name tags.

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Grade 5, busy with an activity.

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The stairs leading to the English Center at Namshin, complete with English idioms.

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The “Book Cafe” in the English room at Daejang.

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The office I share with my co-teacher at Namshin. It has windows!

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Eumseong-eup, Korea

I was placed in Eumseong, a small town located in Eumseong County in Chungbuk Province.  Chungbuk (also known as Chungcheongbuk-do) is in the middle of Korea and is the only landlocked province.  There are about 19,000 residents in my town and approximately 96,000 within the entire county (for some perspective, South Korea has 50 million people living in roughly 38,000 square miles–that’s close to the size of Indiana).  Eumseong county, along with most of Chungbuk Province, attracts very few tourists and does not see many foreigners.  As a result I get stared at, a lot.  Not in a critical way, just a very curious way.  Koreans tend to be very friendly and I find it helps to just smile a lot.

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Early morning in Eumseong’s main park near the river.

I’ll admit I was a little disappointed when I found out I was placed in a rural area, but there are actually quite a few positive aspects to living in Eumseong.  Firstly, I never have to worry about getting lost as I can walk anywhere I need to go.  Secondly, it’s easy to find cheap, authentic food (I just have to play a guessing game when ordering).  Thirdly, a small town means small schools which also means my class sizes are small.  Anytime I feel the need to seek out city life (night life in particular) or want to explore another part of the country, I can easily hop on a bus or a train.  Plus I get to experience living like a local Korean, or at least more so than in a big city.

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The small river and jogging path that run through the middle of town.

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Spring has finally arrived in Eumseong!

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The best fried chicken at the local street market. And that hair! It matches his purple shirt!

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The local street market.

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View from my apartment building in Eumseong.

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My main school, Namshin Elementary.

 

I decided to quit my job of nearly seven years at the Seattle Art Museum, sell just about everything I own and move to the other side of the world to teach English to children in Korea.

Do you speak Korean?

No.

Have you ever been to Korea?

No.

Have you ever taught before?

No.

South Korea, right?

Um, yes.

Oh, cool. Good for you!


I had a good job in a great city, but for numerous reasons I won’t bore you with, I needed a change.  I applied for new jobs here and there thinking perhaps an office with carpet that wasn’t three decades old or a new cubicle with a fancy ergonomic chair would suffice but ultimately came to the conclusion that I’d eventually wind up back in the same place.  After doing quite a bit of research and more daydreaming than necessary, I decided teaching abroad in Korea sounded like a pretty stellar plan.  I love to travel and experience new cultures and the teaching part, well, I figured it would be hard to be the worst teacher in the world.  Regardless of my teaching capabilities, I decided it would be an experience that I’d learn from, grow from and assuredly not regret.

So here I am, in Korea, teaching English to kids (belated start to this blog but better late than never, right?) while enjoying a pocketful of kimchi everyday.